Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
