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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.